Eating in Benoa, Bali

Unfortunately I have only very little time here in Benoa, it is a turn over port for the ship and the whole morning is already booked with loading and I have to see a supplier for some extra and speciality goods, but then I am meeting up with my old friend Dietrich, who is living here for quite a while now and has started his own Recruitment agency, specializing in Hotels and restaurants http://globalexpatrecruiting.com/ We worked together a couple of years ago on the luxury cruise liner "The World" and he decided to call Bali home.

Firstly I had to get used to Bali time, the supplier said that they will be with us at 830 in the morning, but after a couple of calls forth and back they finally appeard at 930.....anyway, it was worth the wait as the shop we went to is just fantastic, an Expat heaven, stunning home made ice cream (I especially loved the mango-chili sorbet). loads of cold meat, lovely butchery section and they have even a local Wagyu beef, very nice, and imported cheeses. Of course one can get the whole range of exotic fruit and then a load of organic salads and leaves. There is a big wine section and I got as well some special Balinese Sea Salt and Peppercorn. The shop is actually a food distributor for the top hotels in Bali, but luckily open to the public. It is called Lotus Distribution and one can find the shop in Jl. Bantas Kangin No 2, Jimbaran Bali. (62-361)701 650. I think especially if one is for a longer time in Bali, it is worth popping in and getting a fix of Western Products.

Then for lunch with Dietrich and his girlfrien Daisy I had the choice of local, around the corner or more upmarket at Kuta Beach. Now being a Foodie, I opted without hesitation for the local option and Dietrich just ordered some of their favorite foods, as you can see they like a lot of food. Especially stunning was the prawns with water spinach or Kang Kong, which came sizzling to the table, then we had whole prawns, onion rings, spicy fried rice with squid, Kang Kong with chicken and noodles (Pad) with chinese cabbage and fried egg. All the food was absolutely delicious and cooked right next to us in the open air kitchen. I have to say the restaurant was very clean and full, apparently even fuller in the evening, which is a good sign.

The restaurant is called Warung Malang and is......somewhere closish to Kuta Beach....actually no idea where it really is, but it is worthwhile to go through the trouble and find it. If someone really wants to go there, I am happy to get the exact address.
After lunch we had a small sight seeing tour through the most important tourist spots, the famous shopping and party avenue were we visited the place were the terrorist attack was on the night club. OK, not really a touristy thing to do, but it just makes one think a bit that not everything in this world is hunky dory.

Then we went off to Kuta Beach and I was warned that they will try to sell me anything there.......which they did try, but Dietrich saved the whole situation with telling them in Indonesian that they won't need to worry, we will be back tomorrow, yes right! Anyway, Kuta beach is a must see for everybody, it is actually a lovely and long beach, beautiful sand and we had this stunning little sea breeze that made the heat a bit less. A lovely cool beer in the shade of the palm trees and we were happy chappies.....for the short while at least we were there as we had to move on, back to the ship.

As for the travel in Bali......Bike, that is all I can say, traffic can be horrendous and one spends far too much time stuck somewhere, so catch a ride on one of the bikes or hire one, they don't cost much

Do we need the rat race?

We are so used to just running around, stressing, having hectic times, staying in traffic jams, the list could go on and on, but do we really need this rat race?

Being here on the ship and chatting with my hands and feet (at least till an Indonesian official helped me) with this fisherman from Komodo Island I see a more peaceful live style. His daily job is to get fresh fish, the family with him on board and hopefully sell enough to be able to buy some other goods necessary to live. His job is the actual fishing, throwing out the net and get the net back in...and of course he is the captain of the little fishing vessel. His wife's job is to get the fish out of the net, make sure the water gets scooped out of the boat (seems to be leaking quite a bit as she throws out a full bucket ever 5 minutes) and to make sure there is fuel in the engine. And I think the little boy just has a good time. If I could do it myself? I doubt it as I do like a little bit the hectic live, action around me....but I do enjoy time out, very much so

Seeing all that fresh fish we decided to buy his whole catch and after a very short negotiation we agreed on a set price, 100'000 Rupee, the equivalent to 10 USD. He wanted more, but that was actually all the money I had left and we mutually agreed that he can have my last money. We got about 7 kg of really fresh fish for it, all small, some mackerel, bass and snapper. Not that I just wanted small fish, but it is just what they have here. The lady next to him tried to sell us some fresh squid, but unfortunately there was no money left, I first have to change again in Bali.
The choice is nice here, the next fisherman came about an hour later with three stunning trevally for sale....yes we bought them all. Ian, the hotel manager bought two and donated them to the crew. We will cook them whole, but I will write about that later. As usual there will be a fight of who will get the head, my opinion is that the honour should go to Ian! And then the carpenter bought one as well for the deck guys, this one will be cut in steaks and then fried. I think today everybody will be feasting somewhere on the ship.

The small fish I cook very simple, just sea salt and pepper, then fried in olive oil, just delicious. We gutted it first and rubbed a little bit lemon juice on it, just to give it a bit more flavour.

With that we made a simple chunky tomato sauce, onions, garlic, capers, olives, fresh and very ripe tomatoes, just all roughly diced, then fried in a bit olive oil, add a pinch of sea salt, basil and black pepper from the mill and let it simmer for 5 minutes. It must be cooked quickly to preserve the freshness and acidity of the tomatoes, it is just gorgeous.

I got some baked potatoes, so we serve that with the fish, a simple Mediterranean feast.

A must read for any chef and cook

I am, like any other chef I know, mad about cookbooks. I could spend so much money on them it is actually frightful! And then there is such a huge choice of books, one has to be a bit careful not just to buy anything. Often cookbooks are similar to each other, so over the past couple of years I have reduced my buying drastically. Nowadays I only get a book if I feel that it is really special, like Harold McGee's McGee on Food and Cooking. I think this is a book every chef should not just have, but read from the first to the last page. It is not a recipe book as such, there are some guidelines in it, but it is an encyclopedia about what happens when food gets cooked. Why does meat get tender (or not) and why does scrambled egg turn green! Food is analyzed and broken down. After reading this book I understand a lot more of the actual happenings during the cooking process and I am able to cook food even gentler to have a better result. For me this book is a must.

But instead of just buying books, I subscribe as well to some magazines like the Australian Gourmet Traveler. A lovely monthly magazine with good food, a good variety of bistro food all the way to fine dining, special editions on Italy, France and Spain and of course there is always some Asian recipes in there. I enjoy reading about the latest trends (I feel the Aussies are way ahead there), the latest tools and about the travel. The travel section at the end of the magazine is lovely and gives plenty of good hints of what to do.

Then of course there are the "must have" books, but the only use for them, at least for most of us, is as a table top book. Foremost the books of El Bulli, without the proper ingredients and cooking material they are just a collection of fancy pictures of different hot and cold jellies, powders, spheres and so on. The same is with Hestom Blumentals latest book, "The Fat Duck".

One book I really enjoyed reading is "Made in Italy" by Giorgio Locatelli. Yes he is the madman on BBC Food Channel with the long hair, but his book is just beautiful. It is a mix of small stories, interesting facts about products and of course recipes. They are authentic and Italian, simple and deliciously tasty, just love them. It is a thick heavy book with more than 600 pages, worth buying the hard cover!

So yes, I guess it is a bit of an addiction, to buy cook books, but there are worse addictions

Badas, Indonesia

We just sailed away from Badas (not pronounced Bad A...) where we went quickly to the market to fill up on some local fruit and we got some whole goats delivered which we will be cooking in about 10 days, they still have to hang.

I was a bit worried to buy whole goats from a local supplier that I don't know, so I asked them to be slaughtered and gutted. Here in Indonesia one would otherwise get the whole goat.....sometimes still alive! My fear was mainly that the goats would be slaughtered a day or two before we arrive and I had no idea if there was any cooling for the meat. The crew wanted to have the heads and livers, but unfortunately I could only get the heads, the livers were already....let's call it disappeared. The amazing part was actually that the goats were slaughtered just when we arrived, when they delivered them to us I could see some of the nerves still twitching! So now we will hang them in the walk in fridge for 10 days before we use them on our gourmet menu, there will be a blog about it, for sure.

So today we just went quickly out to see what the market had to offer and we were really lucky, the fruit is fantastic! Some of the special fruit we found was of course Mangosteen, Rambutan, Fingerling Bananas, Chico, a lovely fruit tasting a little bit like sweet wine with citrus in it (one can get a little high as when they are ripe there is a little alcohol in the fruit) and a fruit called Salak, or Snake Fruit. It looks like a Fig with snake skin and inside it is a bit like a Mangosteen, just lovely.

The market was exactly as I remembered the Asian markets, kids running around, plenty of flies, especially where they sold fresh fish, and then of course this sweet/sour/foul smell that lingers every where from over ripe fruit and.....Durian. There was plenty of Durian but I resisted (which was easy) to either try or buy some! Been there, done it and got the "smelly" T shirt.

But then there was of course all the other vegetables like Morning Glory, lovely ripe tomatoes, baby eggplant (I had to buy them) zucchini, cucumbers, loads of garlic, onions in all shapes and of course everything is organic, it is just normal here, nobody advertises their produce as organic as it just is!

The fish section, if one can call it a section was just some stands between the rest selling their catch, mostly small fishes from the local sea. Nothing is cooled here and there are plenty of flies.....no I didn't buy anything here. My stomach handels a lot, but I really don't want to risk it! But it was still nice to see the variety here, mostly the fish gets fried an deaten the same day.

Some of the fruits, like the bananas we actually bought from one of the many street stores along the way. They are a little bit more expensive, but are looking better and are a bit cleaner too, so it is worth getting some fruit there, and not to forget, all the fruit must be washed well or better peeled!

Crew Party

The cat is out the house and the Mice start dancing, or at least something similar like that. All the guest went out overnight to see the temple of Borobudur, so we had time to catch up a bit, give everywhere a good clean and, yes, have a little crew party on deck.

Amazing to see how much care everybody takes to prepare the food for the crew, sometimes I think they try to cook even nicer than for the guest. We just wanted to make a buffet for everybody, but then when it came to the set up we were running out of space and had to add more tables.

A big hit was of course the BBQ. We just put everything there and if someone wanted the meat cooked they would stand around the BBQ and grill away. A very social way to cook as the crew was all happily standing there, grilling away and having a drink and a good time. There are prawns, chicken, steaks, sausages and fish fillets, everything marinated and just waiting to be eaten.

Then there is naturally the "normal" buffet section with a little carvery, a lovely roast porkleg and a marinated and slow cooked pork belly which was just melting on the tongue. Can't do without French Fries on a crew party, but then there is as well pasta, Asian vegetables and of course plenty of fragrant, steamed rice and the Filipino bread rolls, rich in butter and then topped with sugar and....Cheddar! Sounds strange, but this mild cheddar goes really well with it. Often there is some ham in the bread as well, really, a lovely combination!

Of course the food was mainly Filipino, but there were plenty of more European options, so we all had a good time eating. The only part of the buffet, I insisted had to be there, is the Halo Halo Station. Halo Halo is a traditional Filipino dessert consisting of shaved ice, condense milk and a whole lot of toppings including but definitely not limited to: agar jellies, in sugar cooked sweetcorn, white beans and butternut, papaya strips, purple potatoes and caramel. It was extremely popular and was finished within no time.

We were all waiting for the on board crew band to play, but the lead singer, Roger, overdid it a bit with the pork crackling and wasn't feeling too well after dinner, he should have washed it down with more beer! So there was just Disco till the early morning hours, or so I believe.....I was fading away after dinner and with no band playing I heard these pillows of mine whispering in my ears that it is time for bed........getting old I guess!

Koeksisters

I am always told that making Koeksisters is not that easy and yes, I actually believe it. I had some amazing Koeksisters, but then again, I had some really terrible stuff, so bad that I would not serve it to a guest, never mind a friend.The perfect Koeksister, for me at least, is crispy on the outside and so juicy in the inside that if one bites off a piece the syrup is running down ones chin, yummie!!!!! I like to keep the Koeksisters in the freezer, they hold perfectly and one can nibble them at any time. They are not overly sweet when eaten directly from the freezer, like that they have something refreshing to it.

So having some time on my hands I am trying myself on making the first batch, I got this really easy looking recipe and off I go! I have to admit so that I have changed it from the original recipe as that one couldn't possibly work, it did not have enough liquid to make the dough soft. I am writing recipes nearly on a daily base as part of my job and over the years got a feeling for quantities so it is actually a bit annoying when I read recipes in publications and I just know that the result will not be good or they won't work the way they should. Now this recipe does work.

For the Koeksisters

1 kg Cake flour

60 g Baking powder

80 g Butter

1 Pinch Salt

450 ml Milk

2 ea Eggs

For the Syrup

5 kg Sugar

2.2 l Water

1 Cinnamon stick

200 g Ginger

1 Lime

3 Cloves

15 g Cream of tartar

For the dough rub butter with the flour till crumbly, then add all the other ingredients and work quickly to a soft dough. Let the dough rest for at least 2 hours.

Roll the dough to 5 mm thickness and form the Koeksisters. To get the shape of the Koeksisters one cuts rectangles about 7 cm long and 3 cm wide. Then one makes a cut in the middle, lengthwise. Then the one end gets pulled through the incision and voila!

Fry them in hot oil till golden brown.

When they are cooked put them immediately in the ice cold syrup. Leave them to soak for a little while and then drain them off.

It makes about 80 Koeksisters

For the syrup add all the ingredients together and heat up till the sugar is completely dissolved. Do not boil the mix. Then cool the syrup down and keep in the freezer over night, to get the best result the syrup must be ice cold.

For the followers of my blog you might see that they are actually very similar to the Tulumbas from Turkey, just that the shape is a bit different.

Exotic Fruit

Asia is great for fruit. Even the ones we know very well and can buy at home like the banana. Here if one buys a banana, even in a fairly green stage, they ripen within a day or so and have to be eaten......and they are sooooo sweet! There is a myriad of fruit here, many of them are deliciously sweet and colourful.....and some of them not so sweet like the Durian. I have put together just a few of them, there are so many one can write a whole book. I think most of the ones I mention are widely available so if you see them, buy one and try it!

The young Durian is actually not too bad, one is not allowed to have them in a closed room like a hotel room or bus as they will stink out the entire place, especially if they get ripe. But when they are young they still have firm meat, looking lovely pale yellow......and taste very much like raw onions!!! But when they get mature.......the meat looks deliciously like vanilla custard but smells more like a mixture of old eggs and onions........no, I have not tasted a Durian at this advanced stage, I am brave but not that brave, lol.

Another fruit I absolutely love is the Rambutan, it looks like a litchi that has hairy spikes, but inside it is pretty much the same, just tastes a bit sweeter. Rambutan can be found allover Asia, look pretty and taste great.
Similar to the Rambutan is the Longan. The skin is a bit hard, yellowish and smooth and it has a big pip and only little fruit, but it is like a concentrated Litchi, sweet and juicy, just a great little snack!


Then there is the Dragon Fruit or Pitaya. Best when just cut in half and then eaten with a spoon. I like when it comes out of the fridge as the taste is so refreshing. One can find it a lot as well as fruit Lassies. It looks great with it's white flesh and all the black pips. The taste is a bit like a bland Kiwi. One of my favoured drinks is plain yoghurt, crushed ice and Dragon Fruit, then all blended, it is soooooo refreshing!!!
And for today as a last fruit the Mangosteen, my favored. There is not much meat to eat, one first has to cut the fruit open and it is really thick skinned, but then there are the creamy wedges in there, ok, again there is a big pip in them, but the taste beats everything, at least for me. It has hints of citrus, this incredible creaminess and sweetness, wow, I just love Mangosteen!

Singapore

I love Singapore, I think everything is about food in this City and everybody is eating all the times. I was meeting up with an old friend of mine, Sam. We worked together a couple of years ago and it is just nice to meet up again after all these years and chat a bit.

I arrived a day before joining the ship and had a whole day to spend here, what a treat. We met just before lunch and went to one of the many food courts in the city. We opted to have some Thai and Singaporean food and had some sweet chili soft shell crabs (middle) some chicken in black bean sauce and a chicken rice with black olives (bottom). Chicken Rice is typically Singaporean, but with the black olives it gave a bit of a Fusion feel to it. The chili sauce served with it was lovely hot and very fragrant!

After a visit to the "Flyer", a huge turning wheel we had some Thai Iced Tea to cool down a bit. The "Flyer" is a must when in Singapore, one has a great view over town and learns a lot about the history and buildings. At the moment there are two huge Casinos being built, luxury accommodation on Sentosa Island and a new Cruise Ship Terminal, to accommodate the new super liners.

Dinner was then in the hotel, a simple buffet but with some interesting food on it. I had some Honeyed Chicken, Satay, an extremely spicy fish wrapped in banana leaves, man was that hot, I thought my brain would go up in flames!

For dessert I had some Asian Sweets, Agar Jellies, Coconut Jellies and that red thing looking like a Ravioli was a rice dough filled with sweet Peanuts, strange but nice.




Singapore has something for every food lover, I think there is food from every corner of the world available!

Flying Singapore Airlines

I just had a lovely flight from Cape Town to Singapore. Even so the flight was fully booked, service was impeccable, beating Emirates! Very seldom will one find such wonderful and smiling flight attendants and especially during the night they passed all the times with trays of water, juice and snacks, something I was missing on Emirates.

The food of course was very good too, but what I especially liked was that it was served on nice and big non slip trays, big enough that one had space to put all the papers, bags and lids on the tray without having everything piling up!

The menu we were served was a lunch

Smoked Ham with vegetable and pasta salad

Braised fish fillet with black bean sauce

seasonal vegetables and steamed rice

or

Roast Chicken with Herb Gravy

Buttered vegetables and roasted Potatoes

Cheese and Crackers

Mocca Mousse

OK, the menu was not as fancily written, but everything that was on the menu was as well served. The weakest part of the menu was the smoked ham, it didn't live up to the rest of the meal. I had the fish and it was delicious, my neighbours had the chicken and it looked succulent and juicy.

For breakfast one had the choice between Asian and normal Continental, both were very nice with me having the braised egg noodles with chicken and mushrooms, in Oriental sauce.

The wine is served in 750 ml bottles, and the quality was very good. They came 3 or 4 times to make sure every bodies glass was always re filled.

There was ample space to sit and everything else was good too, so Singapore Airlines is definitely an Airline I recommend.

Molecular versus Slow!!!!

I am on Face book, but who isn't? I think about anybody is on there, or on Twitter or anything similar. Now being on Face book, of course one joins some groups and being a chef.......yes I have joined some chef groups one of them is Molecular Gastronomy.....what gastronomy? Yes Molecular. It is amazing what is going on in these kitchens nowadays and sometimes I really feel old, out of touch, not on top of it anymore. What happened to the good old classical cuisine? Is it all out the window?

I like to follow the "Wall Posts" and have to smile and more often just shake my head. I feel that it is not really cooking anymore, one actually needs a chemical degree! But then it is fascinating to see how everybody gets up in arms about when to use Xantham Gum and how to use Citrate and Alginate or how to do a reversed Spherification, no, not a normal spherification, it has to be reversed.

The food photos are extraordinarily beautiful,...can one eat that? Yes and I love to look at the photos and try the food, they are more art work than just a piece of food on a plate........ which reminds me a bit of the good old day in the 80ties, when I did my Chef apprentice ship in Switzerland. It was the height of the nouvelle cuisine. Anyone remember? It was a phase when the chef's started to use baby vegetables, everything had to be super fresh and a la minute prepared. One needed a lot of chefs in the kitchens and of course that costs.....one doesn't see Nouvelle Cuisine anymore, but it changed the food served in restaurants and the thinking of the chefs.

Will it be the same with the "Molecular" cooking? I think so. It has just begun, so I think the phase will be here for quite a while, but then over time one will hear less of it and something new will come and revolutionize the gastronomy! After this statement I will most probably expelled from the molecular cooking group and at the same time from the "Slow Food" Group at the same time as "Molecular" is not "Slow" enough! but then again, it is nice to stir it up a bit and get people's reaction!

OK, I have to admit, my true passion in cooking is "Slow Food" where one goes local, if possible organic and there is no use of any ready made products, sauces, anything, just pure taste. I will surely write a lot more about "Slow" in the future.

I am wondering what everybody else is thinking, I am sure opinions will differ quite a bit!

Apple Pie

There is much one can do with apples and one of the most delicious desserts is a good apple pie. Of course there are plenty of apple pie recipes, every grand mother has one, so there is no competing here, I thought I am doing an apple pie without crust, more like a gateau, something that gluten free people can enjoy, without labelling the pie as gluten free and something that really uses quite a lot of apples, especially for the readers with their own apple trees. On top of it, the cake actually doesn't use any sugar, through the slow cooking the cake will have a beautiful, full apple taste and the fruit sugar in the apples will be sweet. It is a very simple and delicious recipe which will take a bit time to cook, but the result is worth it..

Serves about 10 people

24 each Apples, peeled and cored

Pre-heat the oven to about 130 o C. Butter the bottom of a 25 cm baking tray. Slice the apples thinly on a mandolin, then layer them in the baking tray, till you have about 20 layers. Bake in the oven for about 4 hours, then take out, line the top with a baking paper and press gently. Cool down over night in the fridge, with the tray still on top of the cake.

2 cups double cream

2 tbsp. Calvados

2 tbsp. Castor Sugar

Whisk cream with Castor sugar to soft peaks, add Calvados and refridgerate for an hour.

Cut the cake in square pieces and serve with the calvados cream

On the photo I did a little apple compote as well, just peel, core and cut apples in cubes and simmer them with some raisins, Castor sugar and cider.

Blueberry Roulade

For a change I want to do a blueberry roulade as it is Blueberry season and they are really sweet and juicey, not like the ones they are for sale in the supermakets during the year

To do a biscuit for a roulade is actually very simple, it is just very important that everything is beaten properly so that the batter is quite firm and not runny

So here is the recipe

6 each Egg yolks

6 each Egg whites

100 g Sugar

1 each Lemon Peel

0.5 each Vanilla bean

125 g Flour

25 g Butter, melted

Whisk the egg yolks with half the sugar, lemon peel and vanilla till thick and creamy. Beat the egg white together with the rest of the sugar till firm peaks. Add half the flour to the egg yolks, then add half the egg white to it, always mixing carefully so not to loose any of the lightness. Then add the rest of the flour and the rest of the egg whites. Just before baking add the melted butter.

Spread the batter about 5 to 7 mm thick on a non stick paper, make sure it is nice and square. The batter should be nice and firm, so is not running away.

Bake in the pre heated oven at 220 o C quickly, take off the baking tray and cover with a damp cloth to keep the biscuit nice and soft.

Filling

500 g Blueberries

50 g Sugar

250 g Cream cheese

250 g Cream

3 leaves Gelatine

Warm the blueberries up with the sugar, then add the soaked gelatin

Mix the blueberries with the cream cheese.

Then add the whipped cream.

Spread the filling on the roulade biscuit, then roll with the cloth underneath, nice and firm.

Keep in the fridge for a couple of hours before serving.

It is a really easy recipe and not very time consuming, worth a try. Of course the filling can be anything, from chocolate to fruit, whatever one likes to have.

Flying Emirates

Now after spending so long on airports, yes I had to spend quite a few hours in planes as well. It is always the same, flying away from home, there is no rush and I have time on airports, but flying home, that has to go as fast as possible.

Check in as usual wasn't a great deal, even with my nearly 40 kg luggage. I just produced my Seaman's book and off the suit cases went. It has some advantages when travelling back from a ship, 40 kg luggage is nice, all my 6 bottles of wine, one bottle Metaxa, the Turkish delights and much more...that all takes space and weight!

Emirates is nice to fly with, service is lovely and helpful and one of the most important parts, for me at least, the food is good. Just to let you know what we "had" to eat for lunch:

.

Salmon and Vegetable Terrine

served with crunchy bean sprout and mushroom salad

Sauteed Prawn and lemon wedge

.

Chicken Makhanwala

Tender pieces of chicken sauteed and tossed in a creamy Makhanwala sauce

Served with steamed Basmati rice and vegetable Salounah

.

Green apple and almond dream

soft almond sponge topped with a light green apple flavoured mousse

and home-made granola

.

Cheese and biscuits

.

Tea or coffee with chocolates

.

Sounds delicious doesn't it? And to be honest most of it was, just the salmon terrine was actually a salade Nicoise, still very nice but not what was advertised, main course lovely, dessert delicious, even as it was made out of a packet, cheese the usual in plastic wrapped cheddar and chocolates was a single chocolate, but overall, very enjoyable. I have eaten a lot worse on planes so Emirates are high up there in the ranking.

Like I said, service was faultless, attentive and very friendly, TV...I had to get used to it, just a different system but huge choice. Space on the seats was average, but then again, I have seen worse. Bot times I flew the plane was fully booked to the last seat, but the attentive personnel coped very well. I think it is an airline one can recommend.

Oh, by the way, if anybody is allergic to onions or garlic, there is plenty of both in the food..plenty!!